Castelo Marvao

Late on a frigid November afternoon I checked into the Pousada Santa Maria---a converted convent---in the eagle-nest town of Marvao, Portugal. I was the only guest at the hotel. I…

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Rats at Mafra

The imperial palace at Mafra, Portugal was built on a huge scale with loot from the Brazil colony. Everything is super-sized: room after room with billiard table, deer antlers, and…

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